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Subject: Ion solenoid function switch?
From: Robert
Hello Ydna,
If you do not mind, I have a few technical questions I would like to pick your brain over if that's ok?
What I am trying to do is find a way to block all airflow to a bolt until the trigger is pulled. Essentially preventing ANY airflow from leaving the solenoid until the EXACT moment the gun is being fired.
I have an ION parts donor at home and after reading your tech articles.... I was thinking if I wanted to make an ION into a 3 way NORMALLY CLOSED solenoid, would blocking the 1/8 inch outlet going to the QEV / breech area accomplish this ??
If I am way off track, could you explain what is the best solenoid to accomplish this task and or what methods/parts to be used to reach my goal ?????
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!
-Robert.

Re: Ion solenoid function switch?
Well, typically I'd say "no you're crazy!" but actually I know it is possible to convert the solenoid into a normally-closed valve instead of a normally-open one. What you have to do is thread the bottom (vent hole) of the solenoid for an air fitting, which will be the valve's input. Then you have to fit a very small spring around the top of the armature so it pushes down continuously. Basically this will turn it into a normally-closed valve. This is a modification that NiCad from Deadlywind paintball came up for some crazy custom project of his...you may wish to e-mail him about it for more details (like pics, which I didn't save...)

Of course the catch is it's a big pain modification to perform. You have to take the armature to a lathe and shrink the diameter of its top so the spring has some room to compress, and even then it's kindof a ghetto mod. If any type of normally-closed valve will work okay in yoursituation you may wish to check out the valves available on airsoldier.com, which carries some stuff made for modding automags with pneumatic trigger setups. You can also use an Autococker three-way valve with one of the outputs blocked off.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]


Subject: Electromag frame
From: Mendel D.
Hi,
I had an idea that I would like to discuss with you. My idea is to make an electroframe for an Automag. What I wanted to do is get either a Dye UL frame or an Ego frame, connect a capacitor to the board and use a Wrath or Spyder solenoid to trip the Automag sear, withou the use of pneumatics (like the MPA-3, LPR and an electro-pneu noid).
I heard that these boards (Ego and Dye) are meant for electropneumatic systems and, therefore, use a smaller voltage than, say, a Spyder board (which is solelly electric). Anyway, is there a way to acomplish my project?
The idea is to have a bolt-on frame, easier to maintain, with less parts and less problems to troubleshoot. I would like to have a board with an LCD (like the Ego) or OLED (like the new Yakuza) screen.
So, would you do that? How much for your service and what's the timeframe involved?
Thanks,
Mendel.

Re: Electromag frame
Well, there would be an issue with fitting everything inside the frame, which would probably be the main concern. It's true that you would need to include a capacitor someplace, but the main issue I think is that you'd need to include a solenoid for the sear, and the sear itself, all in that very small space along with the circuit board. The UL frames don't have much spare room inside them, and they don't have to worry about the solenoid since it's inside the body with a Dye DM, PM, Rail, etc.

I think it'd be possible to design a similar frame to perform the same job, but in terms of making it work using a UL frame and board...that might be limited to just custom work only. If you were able to produce a whole new frame and package it with a sear-tripper solenoid and sear all assembled and ready to go, then it wouldn't be impossible to provide a drop-in kit, but that type of project would require a lot of development for sure.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]


Subject: Shocker SFT body modification
From: Anthony P.
Hello,
I'm currently working on a gun project, and I had planned on modifying a shocker body to fit my needs and I have a couple questions I was hoping you could help me with. My first question is about the air passages inside the body of the shocker. The project I'm working on is not a shocker, I was only hoping to use the body for dimensions and because its already milled. Is it possible to at least block all existing airways in the gun to create my own where it needs to be? Secondly will a closed shocker body hold pressure without a firing can and shocker bolt assembly in it? Is it possible to do all this, or am I better off making my own body?
Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Anthony

Re: Shocker SFT body modification
I've actually tried something like this in the past, but I couldn't get it to work very good. What I did was take a 4-40 tap (same thread as the body set screws) and continue threading the rest of the hole, all the way up into the main chamber where the bolt is located. I then installed long (half inch? maybe more) 4-40 thread set screws and loctited them into the body, hoping that they would seal the spot between the main bore and the solenoid insert chambers.
Well, it didn't seal very good, probably because the loctite wasn't very thick by the time the screw finally reached the threading right under the main bore. It might be possible to seal them more adequately using some other method but frankly I didn't really expect it to work from the start and I ended up abandoning that project for other reasons.

One thing you may wish to do is try to retrofit your new assembly into the existing body, using modified solenoid inserts or something. I'm doing something like that with a concept marker of mine, where it'll use a slightly modified insert for the left solenoid insert, and the right solenoid insert chamber will be a continuous air supply so it'll only need to be plugged at the rear. Depending on the tye of assembly you're using, a similar thing may or may not be possible....it'd take some development to get ideal if it were possible, but it'll save some time if you can make it work.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]


Subject: Anodizing barrels
From: Jonathon C.
What do you think about anodizing barrels. I wanted to get my marker, along with my lucky 15 kit anodized. Would the lucky 15's inner finish be thrown off? What's your view on anodizing barrels?

Re: Anodizing barrels
It's generally not a good idea to reanodize the entire barrel back, but what you can have done (if the ano shop offers it) is have them plug both ends of the barrel before they strip the ano...that way the inside finish stays the same since the ano layer in there is untouched. Then, when they have it replated with the new color/finish, it'll only affect the raw aluminum on the outside of the barrel and the inside will be fine (just a different color).

The reason for this is because most barrels go through a pretty strenuous production process to improve their surface finish, but once the ano layer is stripped off the finish is messed up. After that the raw barrel would have to be re-honed and re-polished, which most ano shops don't do. But if you have it so the inside finish doesn't get stripped, then it'll work just the same.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]


Subject: Ion P90
From: Paintballer4ever
You guys rock! I had yet to find a P90 paintball gun and you made it like it was manufactured by a big-time company! The P90 is my favorite PDW and i LOVE what you did in making it a paintball gun. I was wondering scince you don't "offer your services", would you send pics or something helpful so I could make my own?
That would be great!
Keep it cool!
-Paintballer4ever

Re: Ion P90
Yep check this page for some pictures and info on how I did the mod.... zdspb.com/customwork/p90ion.html
There's probably a number of easier ways to do the same mod, such as by using the stock pneumatics for the base marker (Ion in this case) but I've got a lot of spare parts lying around from all sorts of markers so I wanted to use different items...partially for the sake of it ;)
Thanks, and if you have any questions just let me know!
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]

Re: Re: Ion P90
From: Paintballer4ever
One question, what company makes the p90 you built on?

Re: Re: Re: Ion P90
Boy I'm not sure, I bought it off ebay from a big airsoft gun seller...and it was VERY cheap (like $10 plus shipping or something like that). Apparently it really wasn't a very good airsoft gun since it was gravity-fed and couldn't shoot very fast, so nobody wanted it for the dirt-cheap pricetag. oh well, it worked perfect.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]

Re: Re: Re: Re: Ion P90
From: Paintballer4ever
Great, its good to hear im not buying some 200 dollar airsoft gun just to turn around and tear it apart. :)
Thanks a lot for the help. also, just wondering, if I wanted to, could I change it back into "speedball" form? or would it harm the gun? My Ion is the only semi-auto I have, i also have an autococker pump.
Also, what's the thing attached to the regulator?

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ion P90
It would probably depend on how you have it set up. For instance any soldering modifications you did to the board would probably make it more or less permanent into the P90 shell. But then again you could always buy another board/solenoid and use it just for the P90, then when you want to go speedbakk just take the firing assembly out and put it with your regular Ion frame/electronics.

In answer to your question about the reg, I have the reg screwed into a regular "duckbill" ASA which I chopped off so it wouldn't be as long. I use that for the output that leads to the rear of the marker through the black hose.
I figured using a tank adapter would be the easiest way to "seal off" the top of the reg, while at the same time giving me a spot to connect the hose for the rear of the marker. I ended up attaching the other hose to the top of the reg itself but it doesn't really matter where they attach as long as it works :)
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]


Subject: Airgun consult
From: Lloyd S.
Hello Andy
I have been studying your www.zdspb.com website and the many aspects of its technical content. The quality and quantity of modeling, the technical and operational descriptions, and the depth of understanding in operational theory vs. field functionality are quite obvious and impressive. Excellent work.
I am interested in airguns as a hobby and have become involved with what are commonly referred to as big bore airguns: single shot airguns of .30 to .60 caliber and velocities of 500 to 900 fps. I’ve built a few unsophisticated prototypes that depart from the usual design practices of commercially available big bore airguns. I’d like to ramp this effort up a bit and believe that some aspects of paintball technology could be transferable to this project.
Would you be at all interested in offering your consulting services for fee on this personal project? Is this anything you’d like to discuss?
Thanks for considering,
Lloyd S.
Charlottesville, VA

Re: Airgun consult
I'd be more than happy to share some ideas with you, although at this very moment I don't think I can commit to anything more major than that. My plate is pretty full as it is right now since I've got a number of contractual things going on in addition to the regular workload and such...barely any time to just sit around these days.

I can immediately tell you I don't have too much experience with more traditional airguns but it's not for lack of trying...it's rather that the ones I've been exposed to were more on the cheap side and used plastic components holding only a couple pounds per square inch, so I wasn't about to go off modifying them with a larger capacity energy source (and certainly not go anywhere with the plastic ones). What types of pressures do your big bore systems use? It sounds like it would be considerably more since the weight of the objects is likely much more too. Although now that I think of it, I'm not entirely sure how the more inexpensive airguns work either...never really dissected enough of them to find a common design type. Although there seemed to be some type of linkage between the pump handle and a spring-loaded valve, which shares commonalities with mechanical paintball markers to a certain degree.

I must admit many people who like yourself are coming from a separate industry often take interest in the "spool valve" systems, which just use an o-ring to seal and release pressure when the chamber is closed. The only issue there is that some intricacies exist inherent to these spool systems, and the actual time it takes to release the firing pressure down the barrel makes quite a difference. Marker designs that use a hammer/valve setup typcally slam open the valve and fire the ball very quickly. The alternative "spool valves" tend to gradually release their stored pressure and as a result some energy is lost (and we end up with a less efficient marker, in terms of shots per tank....usually).
However, this is quite a speculative matter since not much development has actually been done to the scale required for this type of thing (talking about fractions of a millisecond, which seem to make a difference, despite being horridly small). The testing equipment I formally used could only see at a resolution of one millisecond or larger, so even at those levels. I don't even know if there's anything out there that could be of use here, but that doesn't stop me from wishing I had access to it :)

The lightest form of work I've been known to provide usually revolves around CAD drafting of some sort. Like I said I don't think I can take on any new projects at this moment in time but in the future I might be able to provide more help. Although I'm not sure of your production capabilities and such, if you actually needed mechanical prints or design work there. The initial drafting and design is quick, but the touchups and analysis is what really drains the time away.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]

Some portions of the above messages have been removed for confidentiality reasons.


Subject: Helium marker
From: Michiel N.
Dear Ydna,
I’m a Dutch engineering student working a school project and I would like to ask some of your advice. I hope I don’t bother you with this, but you might find this interesting. To give you some of the background: as I said I’m a student in Holland, studying at the Academy for Engineering in The Hague. My current project concerns a single stage gas gun with the goal of trying to upgrade the current design. We’re launching small (metal) projectiles with pressurized helium up to 20 MPa. The current design has some flaws and isn’t all that effective. After some research I got the idea of using the principle of a paintball gun, since the basics are alike. While I was looking for pictures of the inner workings of paintball guns, I quickly stumbled upon your website. I must sincerely thank you, for your website is the best on the web imho and is very useful! Anyway, my question. I noticed you’re quite knowledgeable when it comes to the subject of paintball guns. Do you think it’s possible and effective to apply the principle of a paintball gun on helium gas guns? First of all, helium atoms are smaller than air or carbon dioxide. To maintain pressure, the design need better seals and I wonder whether o-rings would do the trick. Secondly, it would mean the forces increase on the moving parts in the design, which might cause them to stop working properly. Of all the marker-animations on your site, I find the "spool valve, balanced shocker-based" design very interesting and I was thinking using this type of design. Among other reasons, the gas flow seems much smoother in > contrast to designs where the pressure chamber is located under the barrel. Do you think a smooth gas flow has much effect on the speed of the projectile? I’d very much like to know what you think of all this. Is this ludicrous and should I abandon the idea, or do you think it might just work? Hopefully you can give me some feedback and share some of your insights.

I hope you understand I will not use this information to upgrade existing markers or use it for paintball and/or on persons. This project is for research purposes only. For my project I’m researching multiple options and this is only one of them.
Sincerely,
Michiel N.

Re: Helium marker
Well, as you noticed, from a design standpoint the Shocker marker is one of the more basic systems out there. I make a big deal of the pressure chamber placement being so close to the breech, since other markers (such as the "Matrix") have the opposite layout, and as a result they loose quite a bit of energy per shot. In the paintball world this translates to getting less shots per tank fill, which you're probably not worried about, but it's worth mentioning anyways.

The other thing about the spool valve type systems is you'll probably find them much easier to fabricate. There's less components involved, certainly fewer moving components, so it should be quite reliable so long as you get the seals to function correctly. Paintball's spool valve systems are totally reliant on their o-rings, and even use them for physical support/stability in some situations.

I'm not sure about the issue of the o-rings using helium though. I haven't worked much with helium myself so I don't have much experience with it. That said, I would assume a few things...you can always go for a tighter seal with the moving components (put some crush on the o-rings, which is how they're used in most industrial situations) but the o-ring material can also be changed to something else pretty easily. As it is we use urethane o-rings most often but a stronger material might function better with the more energetic helium.
Are you thinking about retrofitting an existing marker to fire your projetile, or build a new one from scratch using a marker as template? The idea of retrofitting one for use with helium is really interesting to me...
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]

Re: Re: Helium marker
From: Michiel N.
Thank you for your response. To start with your last question, for the project we will make a design from scratch, based on existing markers. Indeed this is why I try keep it as simple and basic as possible. For more moving parts could mean more potential defects. And because of the usage of helium and the therefore tighter seals and fittings would mean more attrition. The projectiles are 0.2 inches in diameter, so I have to design the apparatus from scratch anyway.

Actually I was thinking about testing an existing marker with helium and higher pressure, just to see how it will react and where gas leaks might occur. But this would mean a lot more pressure would be applied on the paintball itself. I wonder whether a paintball would actually be fired or just burst open inside the barrel. The basis of my question lies in various websites that explicitly state that markers are not be tempered with. Since you have repaired a lot of markers I imagine you would know what can go wrong, or what the limitations are per design. Every form of feedback on this subject is more than welcome.
Sincerely,
Michiel Nederlof

Re: Re: Helium marker
For the most part I would assume warnings about tinkering with the markers are out there to avoid costly repair work from "homebrew" modifications. The biggest problem I have as an engineer is keeping people from breaking things on their own (either from improper regular use, or from improper maintenance). Of course the legal side of it is, companies don't want you to mess with the gun, because they won't honor the warranty afterwards.

The biggest issue with marker pressures would probably relate to the operating pressures for the internals. All markers that use a pneumatic solenoid will have some kind of set max pressure on the solenoid itself (usually between 100-200 psi depending on the solenoid manufacturer). If the marker design requires a firing valve pressure higher than the solenoid pressure, then an additional regulator is added for the solenoid...we refer to this as an LPR. Some markers use an LPR but not all, it really depends on the scope of the firing valve. For instance the Shocker solenoids can work at a max of 200-psi, and require 180-psi to fire the ball, so they don't have an LPR. But a Matrix uses a solenoid with max pressure of 100-psi, and they require a firing valve pressure of 150-psi...so they add an LPR to protect the solenoid.

In terms of testing, it'd probably be easier to use a marker with an LPR. They tend to be the more complex marker designs, but there's often more potential for tweaking. And in this case you'd be able to keep the solenoid LPR pressure low and increase the firing valve pressure higher than the marker is designed for (say, 300-psi) So, if you're going to fabricate a system yourself, you may wish to add a secondary regulator for the solenoid just to have that extra tuning ability. Regardless of the pressures, as long as the valve pressure is higher than the solenoid pressure, it'd be useful to use an LPR.

From a design standpoint, myself I tend to prefer the designs that isolate the bolt/loading mechanism from the valve. Something like the "Excalibur" or "Shocker Sport" animations listed on the anim page. The downside to these is the added pneumatics make the system take unusually long to fire (so they have a limited rate of fire) but you shouldn't be worried about that. But the other problem is those designs are larger and therefore require a higher number of new parts to be fabricated. They're not as simple as the integrated spool valve designs so it can be more complex to build. Myself I've never even undertook the task of fabricating a customized marker like that....all my projects are single-bore markers with minimum parts. It just takes too long to put that much work into it (lol)
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]

That's a very interesting project.


Subject: Different Inline poppet
From: David C.
Hi Andrew, I've been working on my design for the inline popit paintball gun (from the PBNation thread) for a while and thought it was something different than other people have never made. I was quite surprised to hear that you have built such a device. Do you have pictures / drawings of it or are you keeping it "under wraps"? I would be willing to send you the Inventor files that I've been working on for a look at your design.
You mentioned that the valve on your design is balanced? How did you accomplish this? Did you still require a spring to close the valve or make it close quickly enough? Also, regarding the length of 4 inches, is that the entire length of the gun or just the bolt and back?

Re: Different Inline poppet
I can't discuss much of the details but I can answer a few questions on it. As with most similar systems, the poppet itself isn't 100% balanced (since it needs at least a small push in order for it to form an adequate seal) but suffice it to say the force needed to get it moving is pretty low. It uses a special conical spring to keep the poppet closed. The current version that I'm using right now is pretty efficient. Input pressure 230-psi, LPR pressure 80-psi, dwell 8ms with a nice solenoid (actually not using QEVs). My goal was to get an efficient and fast-cycling system to use as a testbed (which sacrificing performance things like recoil).
The overall length is relatively short but I'm actually not too pleased with that detail. It's a little less than 4.5 inches behind the feedneck spot, assembly diameter is less than an inch (uses a size 19 o-ring to seal the housing parts). I had to shrink the assembly to make it fit a pre-existing body that came from the project's sponsor. They have plans to release a similar operating system later in the year, but I haven't prototyped that version yet since the mechanics are different and need a lot more work before anything can be done with it.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]

Re: Re: Different Inline poppet
It sounds like you might be working on quite a similar design to that of my own. I too am attempting to balance the pressure on the rear and front surface of what I'm calling the poppet. I do intend on using a spring to ensure that the valve closes quickly enough to ensure decent efficiency. I can't remember the exact length of the internals on my design, but I do remember that the drive shaft (rod connecting bolt to ram seal) is about 100mm and threads into the bolt slightly behind center. All-told it should be around 120mm of length from the back of the breach to the back of the gun.

I've used the GGDT utility (linked on the first page of the forum thread) to calculate the volume and pressure required to propel a paintball at over 300 fps and have worked out an inner volume of about 2 cubic inches at 200 psi. I don't know exactly what pressure will be driving the ram but I expect that, given most solenoid requirements, it will be around the 75 psi mark. I may have to adjust the diameter of my ram chamber to fit these pressure constraints. What volume of air do you have stored up at 230 psi to fire the ball?
I've seen on the zdspb site that you have begun doing computer-based flow modeling. Can you recommend good tools to do this for my design? I understand that this is far from a trivial pursuit but I've got a computer science degree and am more than willing to learn the theory to apply such modeling techniques.

Re: Re: Re: Different Inline poppet
My current dump chamber holds 1.12 cubic inches.
The program I use for CFD video clips on the website is SolidWorks' plugin for flow management (called cosmos floworks). It's good for spitting out pretty swirling colors (which I post on the site) but in terms of actual data it's not very good. The analysis engine is very simplistic, it's basically what is the starting prssure and the ending pressure...and that's not enough to get any actual information from the model. Most of the time you're forced to input incorrect variables just to make the simulation solve correctly. The program I use for *actual* anaylsis is called COMSOL, which is an inclusive physics simulation suite. But, the program is very expensive and it takes a considerable amount of time to even create the simulation environment in the first place. I've only used it a few times in the past because even though the data it gives can be useful from an exhibition standpoint, in practicality you're pretty much trying to manage the micro-mechanics of the system....and the scope is just too small. Making changes at that level is pretty pointless since in reality a grain of sand rubbing on some o-ring can instantly throw everything off, heh.

It's kindof a similar situation with the GGDT program. I've found that to be much more useful in the past with heavier projectiles that interact with the barrel in a more traditional "non-contact" sense. With paintball markers the things we're firing are pretty different, and the valves are much smaller. I use it for ballpark numbers on pressure and such, but nothing beyond that due to manufacturing differences....it's unfortunately the only true way to figure things out especially when dealing with the pressure needed to fire a projectile, the flow ratings of valves, etc.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]


Subject: Nice solenoid
From: David C.
Hi again, I have some question for you about solenoids. You'de mentioned that you are using a "nice solenoid". Are you using one of the noids listed on the zdspb solenoid page or are you using a custom made one such as in the 09 Egos or various Dye / Proto markers? Do you have any personal recommendations for solenoids based on quality / speed / price / availability / size / pressure ranges. I think that my design should need a solenoid that can operate between around 70 psi. What solenoid would you recommend in that case? I may end up changing the design to not use a LPR and just use a smaller ram cycling under a higher pressure (probably close to 200 psi). If that's the case what solenoids would you recommend?

Re: Nice solenoid
The solenoid I'm using isn't so much as important as how it's mounted to the marker. In this case it's a base-mounted MAC solenoid but I have a special manifold that essentially allows it to get the quick-venting airflow of a solenoid using QEVs. I'm really quite happy with it :)
For your solenoid selection, honestly I'd say it doesn't matter much for a one-off marker besides for the obvious characteristics (pressure range, physical size, etc). Beyond those features, the only practical difference between solenoids is their reliability and construction, and price of course. but those items don't have much to say about the respective valve's performance. Myself I typically use Humphrey solenoids because I find them to be the most reliable, although they are consequentially the most expensive (typicall). SMC solenoids are also relatively handy and inexpensive too, but they're physically the largest "micro"-style solenoid out there. Parker solenoids are kindof a mix in the middle, although I've seen them fail more than most others...in my experience anyway. Though they also seem to be quite expensive now that no paintball manufacturer uses them anymore (besides Smart Parts).

The good thing about Humphrey solenoids is they operate at the highest pressures too (the CRCB series solenoids do anyway), but once you reach a certain pressure the limiting factor becomes less the solenoid and more the hoses leading to/from it. The valve itself can take almost up to 300-psi, but unless you're tricky the hoses attached to it are likely to blow off before that level. Though you can get creative with hose clamps, push-to-connect fittings, or some other method of securing things...
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]


Subject: Mil-sim idea help
From: WH
Hi Ydna, I wrote to you awhile back about a P-90 mod and I really appreciated your input on that subject. But now, I decided to change gears and do something different like build a thompson sub-machine gun Ion instead. Problem I am having is finding something I could gut as a donor.
Do you have any ideas where I might find a thompson (relatively inexpensive)? I was thinking of maybe like a prop maker or something along those lines. Any input where to look would be great!!

Re: Mil-sim idea help
Yeesh that's a tough one, I don't know of any sources off the top of my head unless there was an airsoft Thompson gun. Not too likely, but that'd be so ideal.
I don't work too much with older firearms like that so I'm not sure of the costs involved with something even similar, but it might be possible to cobble something together from damaged parts if you were to find a spare firearm component b/s/t forum. But like I said I only dabble in firearms at all, let alone customizing things, so I'm unaware of such a place.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]


Subject: Stacked tube question
From: WH
Hey Andy, I have a question for you thats kind of got me puzzled. I know you primarily work on single tubes, but I think you can help. In a stacked tube marker, how would you.... (this is kind of hard to explain) get the bolt to stop the paintball from rolling back and forth between the face of the bolt and the detents? In my ion, I achieved this with the hollowpoint bolt and kila detents.
I kinda want to make a new Fusion bolt for my friend's Fusion, and this is one of the few things that I would like to fix. Thanks lots, you've been a big help, whether you know it or not.

Re: Stacked tube question
Well, I do have a solution for the rollback with a bolt like that, but it might not be something that can easily be implimented. What I did was make a small plastic pin that stuck out to the edge of the bolt then loaded this with a small spring behind it. The goal is to spring load the pin with enough force that a ball can't push it back, but at the same time make it light enough that the pin "deflates" when the bolt moves and the ball slips back into the cupped surface so it can be cleanly guided into the barrel. The tricky part is that the bolt itself might have to be cut up into two sections in order for this to work correctly, basically the easiest thing to do is make a whole new bolt from scratch, but obviously that's perhaps not so easy (lol).

The marker where I've used this actually wasn't a stacked-tube but rather an inline spool similar to a Matrix where there wasn't the possibility of adding a stalk like the HP or similar. But the principal is similar. Of course there are other methods but they're all in line with this, such as the small rubber dome that Angels use, which does the same thing but isn't spring-operated. Not sure if that helps but hey there it is!
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]