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Tech index -> DLX Luxe -> Complete disassembly

This page is a guided tour of the entirety for Luxe disassembly. This page is filled with massive amounts of useless details and tech information so if you're afraid of that then turn back now! (or just stare at the pretty pictures)
The vast majority of these images are of components and practices you are likely to never even see unless you feel the daring need to disassemble the entire marker, or experience problems and wish to diagnose yourself. Complete disassembly of the entire marker as shown here isn't recommended or necessitated during normal conditions. Note that this isn't an actual how-to page, but rather just a tour of the gun (how-to's and tech videos are in the works).

Eye Covers, Detents, and Eyes:
Each of the eye covers are held in place using a set of magnets between them and the body. The magnets are extremely strong, press-fitted into their locator spots within the inside of the cove and the opposing surface on the body's eye cover depression. To remove an eye cover, push inward on the front edge, propping up a small lip on the rear edge. (you're using the magnets to create a lever action, forcing the attractive magnets apart)...

When this access lip is exposed, you can use it for leverage to pull the cover away from the body. Use your fingernail for this, or small tool if fingernails aren't available. In the below picture, the magnets are still attracting each other, and the cover would snap back into position if you were to let go at this point.

Each eye cover has the detents integrated directly into it to avoid dealing with loose springs and other detent components. This style detents is similar to the ones used in Shocker NXTs as well. The detents themselves are angled toward the bolt face, a feature designed to reduce detent wear and extend their life since the bolt strikes them at an angle instead of rubbing against the round detent crest. This design feature also allows the detents themselves to be extremely small in size, and as a result move less from shot to shot.

The detent pistons can be removed if necessary however doing so will likely damage them so this shouldn't be done unless you already have replacements and are willing to damage the current detent. Detent removal is accomplished by inserting a small allen wrench into the detent access port, which will crimp the bottom of the piston inward and allow it to be pulled out from its retaining hole. The detent spring is visible in the access hole below.

Also note that the eye covers house a small foam disk which presses against the back of the eyes. The eyes themselves sit within small grooves designed to retain the shape of the eye flex circuit (also known as an FPC). The foam disk gently presses on the back of the FPC, ensuring it doesn't come loose during regular use. The small ledges of the FPC retainers are visible in the below pictures...

Bolt Removal and Theory:
The other main field strip feature of the Luxe is its quickstrip bolt assembly. The entire set of internals can be removed and serviced without using tools. Additionally, if the marker is still pressurized, simply turn off the air supply and the quickstrip process will automatically depressurize the marker in one fell swoop, eliminating the need to "shoot the marker dry". The process is simple; the rear exposed component is lifted upward to release the firing assembly, allowing it to be removed. Visible on top of the marker body is a small finger grove for leverage on the quickstrip cover:

At this point the bolt assembly can be gently pulled out the rear of the marker body.

You may be wondering how the quickstrip latch system works. The animation below demonstrates the lever action that takes place internally. The internals of the quickstrip assembly are discussed a little later.

The bolt will slide forward and rearward with a tug, but you won't be able to access the internal o-rings until you unscrew the fire chamber from the quickstrip plug. This can be done by hand, simply by grasping the two components and unscrewing. This exposes the bolt and bolt guide components:

Additionally, you can unscrew the bolt guide from the quickstrip plug should you need to service any of the non-moving o-rings involved. The bolt guide also unscrews from the quickstrip plug, and slides out afterwards.

Two additional o-rings are retained inside the fire chamber, used to seal the bolt during firing. one of them is brightly seen here, the other is about a quarter inch deeper inward.

Luxe firing assembly design follows the same trend as an Evolve Shocker bolt in terms of function, except the Luxe internals have been heavily modified with the new parts interaction. The rear of the bolt is known as the bolt sail, and is responsible for the bolt's directional movement (forward and back) which is determined by the solenoid valve. The bolt's front section is designated the dump chamber, and is the location which stores pressurized air to fire the paintball. Within the rear of the dump chamber are a pair of o-rings; the rear o-ring separates the dump chamber from the bolt sail section, whereas the front o-ring is used during firing to seal off air inlet to the dump chamber and deliver only a metered amount of air to fire the ball. Both of these seals are highly important, and both of them are among the first o-rings to replace when the need arises.
An animation of this dynamic can be seen here. Please remember, this is NOT an animation for the Luxe. This animation simply shows how the components interact with one-another. I will post a formal Luxe animation when I have finished making it.
The main differences between the above design and the Luxe is notably that Luxes have a completely hollow bolt guide which adds to the total firing air volume. Additionally, the Luxe quickstrip plug also interacts with the marker's firing pressure since it actually becomes pressurized too, which is a integral part of the quickstrip bleed feature (these components are described later).

For general maintenance, all moving o-rings must be cleaned and regreased. It's possible to effectively regrease the internal o-rings of the fire chamber by applying a coat of grease to the outside of the bolt itself, since this is the opposing surface which comes in contact with the two o-rings. However, It wouldn't hurt to apply a thin coat of grease to the internal o-ring pair directly. Exercise caution to avoid overgreasing the moving o-rings.
There is an additional "inside" o-ring located within the inside surface of the quickstrip plug (not pictured). This seals the rear of the bolt, which can also be regreased either directly or by applying a coat to the rear of the bolt itself (same as above).

Quickstrip Plug Disassembly:
The quickstrip plug is a complex piece of equipment actually comprised of several separate parts assembled together as one. The complexity of the quickstrip plug is then belittled somewhat by the fact that the complete plug is extremely small, meaning the entire assembly is reduced down to its lowest possible size. Having said that, it may be necessary to disassemble the plug, in order to service a leaking problem. For that reason I will disassemble it now to demonstrate the parts and their interactions.
The first step is to separate the Luxe quickstrip cover from the rear of the bolt sleeve housing. This is done by inserting an allen wrench into the receiving screw head exposed when lifting the quickstrip cover upward, seen in the picture below.

The quickstrip cover snaps back down into position on top of the housing due to the urethane o-ring holding it in place. This o-ring acts as a rubber band and provides an amount of flexible force to the cover when it is pulled upward. The o-ring can be seen here, first on the assembled quickstrip plug, then after the cover has been removed.

This retention o-ring must be removed to further disassemble the plug. After removing the o-ring, the plug latch lever will freely move upward and downward. Attached in the middle (directly behind the bolt sleeve housing) is a silver pin-shaped latch which is held onto the lever by a small threaded pin. This is the left of the two allen wrench hexes seen in the below picture. The right hex is the lever pivot; both screws can be removed, although I won't bother with the pivot at this time.

The pin is unscrewed using a 0.05" allen wrench. After removing it, the lever will swing freely since it's no longer attached to the latch pin. The latch pin itself is fitted with a pair of o-rings and seals within its retaining hole in the bolt sleeve housing. Note there is a tiny air port drilled through the side wall of the latch pin's hole.

During normal operation, the latch pin's o-rings surround the small air port. These o-rings pass over the air port when the quickstrip function is actuated, since this involves the latch pin being drawn upward in its hole. When this occurs the pressure within the dump chamber is allowed to vent out this port, where it exists to open air. The remaining pressure within the marker's pneumatics vents backward through the fire chamber and vent here as well. This completed process is known as the quickstrip bleed.

Frame Disassembly & Removal:
The good stuff is hidden within the frame. Some of these images show regular adjustment, some show infrequent maintenance that will ideally never need to happen. Either way, the first step is to remove the grips. Electronics adjustment requires only the left side panels to be removed, but a frame removal/disassembly requires both (shown here). The frame's circuit board is revealed on either side of the frame.

The circuit board's right side contains most of the circuit components, including a number of ROM modules needed for the board's complex voice tones. The eye flex circuit (FPC) is also located on this side. The right side circuit board is a different story; it's here that the speaker, adjustment joystick, battery, solenoid, and trigger microswitch are located.
There's another side to the board as well. The front of the grip wraps enclose and protects the on-board battery charging port, visible in the third picture above. It's actually a Serial-ATA port (used on modern harddrives), although this marker doesn’t have a computer interface available.

At this point you're ready to service the electronics, charge the battery, and adjust the circuit board settings. Further disassembly is not necessary except when separating the frame from marker body, which is the next step. To do this, the speaker must first be removed by loosening the pair of screws holding the speaker mount in place. Gently lift the mount upwards; it also surrounds the adjustment joystick which is easy to damage if care not taken.

With the mount removed, the speaker can be gently pulled out from the frame. Grasp the speaker on its edges only. The battery can be similarly swung outward. Remove the two by gently unplugging them from the circuit board. The solenoid can also be unplugged in the same manner.

To remove the frame you must also separate the eye ribbon FPC from its connector on the opposite side of the frame. Do not neglect to do this or you will surely sever the FPC.

Time to remove the frame screws. The front screw is located in front of the trigger guard; the rear screw is located toward the rear of the frame, accessed only when the firing assembly has previously been removed (see below pictures).

The frame is finally loose. From this point onward EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION; the frame can now be GENTLY removed from the body, paying special attention to the solenoid and circuit board within the frame. Do not quickly remove the frame from the body or you risk serious damage to the frame coupling, solenoid, manifold, and/or electronics.

With the frame removed, conceivably you can now remove the circuit board. I will demonstrate this even though there's virtually no reason to do so. Removing the circuit board helps to profile the surrounding components and internal layout, which is the reason for this demo.
The circuit board is held in place using three retaining screws, removed with a 1/16" allen wrench (seen removed in the following picture). One screw will remain installed on the circuit board; this screw holds the trigger microswitch in place and never needs to be removed.

The circuit board looks like this:

The below pictures show the frame internals. Take note of the offset block of material behind the trigger; this is the location of the grip-routed air supply from the bottomline to the body (the top connection is called the body's input coupling). This air passage leads up to the top of the frame and ends at a raised gasket coupling sticking up above the frame. This coupling is inserted into a receiving o-ring, sunk into the underside of the marker body (the raised seal coupling is necessary to ensure a high pressure seal).

The trigger can be removed from the frame by loosening the two conical bearing screws, one located on each side of the frame. These screws are used to ensure a perfect fit on the trigger bearing without teh use of overly-tight pins that can be difficult to install. The trigger has a pair of roll pins bossed into the side; these pins are used as the pre and post-travel stops.

The last component to the frame is the complex lightpipe used to display the LED array on the frame's rear spine. The lightpipe works in conjunction with the plot of superbright multicolor LEDs located on the surface of the circuit board.

Body Disassembly & Solenoid:
The infrequent maintenance internals for the marker include everything in this section. This involves the Vision eye system, solenoid and its mounting methods, and sealed set screws located within the body. The Vision eye FPC is retained within a slim groove in the body by a series of notches designed to grasp onto the sides of the ribbon and keep it in place. This helps keep the electronics clean during reassembly.

The solenoid is held onto a small vertical manifold block, which is held onto the Luxe body by a pair of mounting screws. They are removed with a 1/16" allen wrench...

The solenoid is held onto its manifold using a pair of metric screws, common to these Parker solenoids. The solenoid is, by the way, the same ole Parker valve used in many previous SP markers as well as Intimidators, Defiants, Tribals, etc. There are many replacement solenoids available that may also function as a replacement for the Parker valve used here. I will look into this.

Here is the manifold itself. It has a number of small ports drilled into it not visible, but they're inconsequential. There are additionally a few loctite-sealed set screw ports drilled into this, used to offset the air passages as needed.

Eye removal is easy to do since the eyes aren't held in place by any screws; everything simply pulls out from its respective passage or groove. However, this doesn't mean you should be lapse in a careful disassembly. The eyes are fragile and need to be handled carefully.

The eyes are much more difficult to reinstall than they are to remove, so you must take your time. They go in exactly as you would think, after matching up the eye ribbon FPC shape onto the groove in the bottom of the body; the FPC bends to the right side of the marker, following the noticeable groove. Thread one eye down through its hole, then pull it up into position. When in position, thread the other eye down the other hole, using a small tool to guide it if needed. When both eyes are in place, gently push the FPC back down into its groove.

You can reinstall the assembled solenoid/manifold onto the body at this point, then reassemble the frame.

Frame Reassembly onto Body:
This is technically no different than the removal process, however you again need to exercise extreme caution when doing it. For that reason I'm going over the process again.
Start by threading the solenoid connector through the frame opening, as shown below.

Guide the frame upward and onto the solenoid, keeping the solenoid toward the rear of the frame. It's helpful to angle the frame as shown in the below picture, which will leave extra space for the solenoid to slide inward.

At this point you need to realign the frame so it fits straight onto the body. When it's in the correct alignment, SLOWLY push the frame up toward the body, again paying attention to the solenoid and circuit board. Do not force any component inward or you will likely break something expensive.

When the frame looks like the second picture above, you're nearly finished. The only remaining step is to gently push the frame upward so the raised input coupling slides down into the o-ring within the marker body. You should feel it slide into position and lock down. Reinstall the frame screws immediately, before reconnecting the electronics. When the screws are in place and tight, plug the eye FPC back into its brown connector, silver contacts facing up as shown below. You may then plug the solenoid harness back into its connector, using a small tool (such as an allen wrench) to push it in after aligning the plug.

Reinstall the battery and speaker in reverse order from the disassembly process. When all parts are reinstalled, power the marker and verify that the eyes still work. If not then you will have to check the connections and eye alignment.

Regulators and Air System:
The Limited Edition package Luxe includes an integrated air system that directs high pressure air (around 650-psi) through the grip frame and up into the body, where it travels a manifold chamber to the vertical adapter. At that point the high pressure supply enters a special foregrip regulator through the top, where the pressure is dropped to a useable amount (under 200-psi), and outputted back up through the reg and into another manifold chamber. This LP air supply is then fed to the individual parts of the marker, including the solenoid and dump chamber.

The bottomline Max-Flo system is replaceable with a standard screw-in ASA, and the Luxe foregrip regulator is also replaceable with a standard vertical reg, using macroline to connect the two. However, you cannot use the integrated Max-Flo air system with a standard vertical reg; you must use the Luxe foregrip reg.

The "regular" Luxe package includes a special screw-in ASA that still utilizes the frame-rounted air supply, and uses the Luxe foregrip regulator. At the time of this writing, the screw-in integrated ASA package isn't yet available.

The bottomline Max-Flo system is essentially the same as previous versions of the Smart Parts Max-Flo Micro reg. This is a high pressure preset-output reg designed for use on any marker using HP input. The Luxe version is obviously milled quite differently, but it's similar internally. The reg comes from DLX with a preset output around 650-psi (I assume) which isn't necessary to adjust. The Max-Flo Micro is actually adjustable (countrary to popular belief) however the method is difficult to correctly perform so I don't recommend attempting it.
The reg is removable by loosening the two socket head cap screws holding it on, using a 5/32" allen wrench. This exposes the grip-routed air supply o-ring on the bottom of the frame, and the opposing port on top of the reg.

The screw located on top of the reg (above picture) is a retainer for the Smartvalve on/off. It can be removed to service the on/off knob's seals in case of a leak.

The regulator's rear input has a small filter located inside, which blocks debris from entering. The regulator is actually adjustable by removing the filter to expose the primary base seat, loosening the set screw on top of the tank threads, and using an allen wrench to screw the primary base inward or outward. However, I do not suggest you do this. Partially because you don't know the exact output pressure without using a gauge to verify, but also because adjusting the primary pressure has virtually no advantage.

Luxe Max-Flo disassembly process is the same as the Smart Parts Micro Max-Flo system.

The Luxe foregrip regulator is a redesigned version of the well-performing Ion/NXT regulator found on Ions and Shocker NXTs. The Luxe version is a bit smaller, and the disassembly process is also different as a result, but the internal layout is similar. The reg also has a milled aluminum shroud/cover which slides over and conforms to the cosmetic curves of the body (the red external part of the regulator seen in all these pictures). The reg has three separate sets of hex receivers in the bottom end; it's best to avoid confusing them all toghether.

- The smallest/bottom hex (5/32") adjusts the reg's output pressure, screw clockwise for more pressure and counterclockwise for less (when looking up at the bottom of the reg as seen in the picture above).
- The middle hex (5/16") is used to remove the regulator from the marker’s ASA.
- The bottom and largest set of hex flats fit a huge allen wrench (3/8”) and holds the reg cover onto the rest of the regulator.

To remove the regulator, use a 5/15" allen wrench to unscrew it. To do this, you must hold the reg cover straight with one hand, and unscrew it with your other hand. If you don't hold onto the reg cover it will jam the reg and prevent you from unscrewing it.
The inside of the bi-directional vertical adapter can be seen on the underside of the body in the below pictures. A filter screen is installed to guard against dirty air fills. The two small air ports seen on the outside rim act as the HP input to the top of the foregrip regulator.

With the reg removed, it can be disassembled. A pair of 3/8" allen wrenches is needed for this; one in the top and another in the bottom. Unscrew to remove the reg cover retaining screw.

A small o-ring lies within the reg cover. This is of course a required part, so keep track of it.

Use a 1/16" allen wrench to remove the two "dogbite" screws located on either side of the regulator body. These screws are lightly loctited so an amount of torque is needed for their removal.

With the dogbite screws removed, insert a 3/8" wrench into the top of the regulator body, and a 5/16" into the bottom. Unscrew to separate the two housing sections from one-another, as shown below.

Out will come the reg piston and its spring. The piston might stay inside the reg body, if this is the case then gently push it out from the top.
There's an internal o-ring located in the bottom reg housing, which seals against the bottom of the piston shaft. To regrease this, apply grease to the o-ring located around the piston itself, clean the bottom base seal on the tip of the piston, and apply a thin layer of grease to the piston's thin shaft. Reasembly is the next step.

The base seat for the regulator is imbedded inside the lower reg housing. It can only be removed after removing the c-clip from the bottom of the reg housing. I don't recommend you do this unless there's a leak, since it's easy to scratch and damage the components during the removal attempt. Nevertheless, there's an o-ring located around the base seat screw, which can cause a leak out the bottom of the reg if worn out (replace it).

Reassembly is the exact same as the reversed disassembly. Install the piston and spring into the reg body, then screw the lower reg housing up onto it. Reinstall the two dogbite set screws into the side of the reg body. It's suggested to use a very very small amount of loctite on these screws, to prevent them from loosening on their own.
Slide the reg cover up around the outside of the regulator and make sure the small o-ring is present on the bottom end. Reinstall the reg cover retaining screw using the pair of large allen wrenches, afterward the regulator is ready to be reinstalled onto the marker.
When reinstalling the reg, you must hold the reg cover with one hand and screw the reg body down (5/16" allen) using your other hand.

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