Navigation:
Tech index -> Custom Work -> Electronics retrofit

This page showcases some of the markers that I've modified to function with a custom board. By "custom", I'm referring to any board not made to work in said marker. This mainly involves Morlock or Predator2 boards.

Depending on the marker and installation features, most conversions displayed on this page cost in the realm of $200-350 for the full conversion (parts included). I use the absolute "cleanest" wiring methods that I can put together, especially in those smaller markers such as AKALMP or Shockers. All my installs involve wire disconnects to allow the body to be removed from the frame. I use 2-mm Molex series crimps for the disconnects, which are perfect for the application. All installs also feature a relocated LED is the user's choice in color. My exact installation method evolved over time for each install.

Shocker Sport:
The first markers I installed Morlock boards in were older Shocker Sports. This involved a plexiglass trigger mounting plate and a custom board header to allow the body to be removed and separated from the frame. Pictured is an original Morlock board which is a little larger than the current ones, but use the same functionality.

For eye milling, the bodies are notched to allow the wires to enter just before their bottoms. This keeps the wires in order and makes disassembly and reassembly a snap, since you don't have to worry about having the wires in just the right position when tightening the frame down. Instead, just realign and tighten.

pVI Shocker:
I've only performed this install once, on one of my own pVI Shockers. I drilled the frame to mount a standard subminiature trigger microswitch, and used a new trigger spring that wouldn't be 20 pounds heavy (pVI owners out there know what I'm talking about). The board used here was one of the older Morlocks.

I also installed beam-break eyes to the body. The entire left eye is concealed within the stock battery tube in the body, but the other eye is more externally visible (as you can see from pictures).

Angel:
Once upon a time I installed a Predator-Morlock board in the Angel of one of the local guys. The gun was a 2000 LCD, in pretty bad shape (bought used) so it needed a lot of cleaning and thread repair. I had to extract a few screws as well. I ended up buying this gun for my own collection, which was a waste of money in my opinion....but anyways....

The trigger microswitch was mounted to a plate of carbon fiber, threaded to accept screws holding it in place.

Autococker:
This Predator-Morlock board was installed in a Race frame. A plexiglass trigger plate was used to hold the trigger microswitch in place (simulating the stock board), and the body was notched to allow the board room to mount with the battery in there as well. The stock LED was also relocated.

Impulse:
I've performed a number of installs in Impulses. Finished installs look like this:

The bodies were drilled internally for the new eye wiring to pass through them and onto the other side, instead of using a whole new eye cover on the non-Vision side.
The install involves mounting the board in the rear of the circuit housing and using a plexiglass mounting plate to hold the trigger microswitch. The LED is relocated to the rear of the housing and a special harness is used to allow the body to be separated from the frame.

Ion:
I performed a lot of installs in Ions, but they didn't turn out as good as I'd wanted, so they were discontinued after about three months.
The first installation method involved removing the stock board, mounting a new microswitch, and milling the frame for the board to be placed next to the battery. I don't have any pictures of this install anymore.
The second method was the most clean, and involved the board mounted behind the solenoid to shine out the back of the frame. I reused the stock board to mount the microswitch, only disabling it so it wouldn't activate. I added different hoses to the solenoid which increased efficiency. This method, however, didn't last very long since the wires got crimped and tugged upon, and would come off. This install method is shown below.

The third method involved using the stock board to mount the microswitch, but with milling on the frame to mount the board in the bottom. The stock capacitor could be used, or I could further mill the frame and install a new one. This is the installation method that I used the most. It ended up being the most reliable, but was also very cluttered in the frame.

I modified the stock eye board to function with the Morlock's eye system. This meany rearranging the circuit and installing new eye components. Here's a picture of my modified daughterboard:

Some time ago I installed a Morlock board in one of my personal Ions, and ended up completing the install using reflective eyes instead of beam-break. The purpose of this was simply to be unique; the reflective eye system worked perfectly fine. Eventually I removed the board so I could easily test the drop-in versions, but the reflective eye mod was definitely unique...

Nerve:
This install I performed only twice, on my personal Nerve, and one additional for a customer. I doubt it has ever been done on any other guns. The install was similar to my Shocker SFT methods, except with different eye milling operations. Here's how it turned out.

I use a new eye cover on the non-Vision side, which looks like this:

In late 2006 I installed my I-LEB beam-break converter in this marker so I wouldn't be restricted to the Predator board. The install looks like this:

E/X-Mag:
This install is pretty complex, and strong knowledge of the way a Morlock board functions is recommended to anybody attempting it. The main concern is using the stock 18 volt battery pack, which is required to drive the Mag's stock solenoid (which actuates the sear all by itself). My install involved dropping in a new "slide" powerswitch to activate and deactivate the marker, so the yellow molded battery plug is no longer needed. I also mount the board in the rear of the frame so the LED simply shines out the back. There's a lot of room to work with inside the frame, since no battery is needed in there.

With the frame separated from the body and rail, the wiring looks like this. The powerswitch is totally insulated from the frame, since a short in the 18v circuit would cause a spark and possibly fire.

For an anti-chop eye, I drill the underside of the body and mount a reflective eye specially suited for use with the Morlock board. This eye sees far into the chamber and is nearly infallable. The underside of the rail is notched using an endmill cut, to allow the eye wires to tuck in (the slot can be seen in the below picture).

Here's a view of the reflective eye used in the install...

When fully-assembled, the wiring looks like this:

Shocker SFT:
This is that marker that most benefitted from the board install. That is, before the drop-in boards were released. After they started coming out in late 2004, the custom board install all but disappeared. Some of the installs here are using Morlock boards, some are with the older Predator2 boards, some are with the drop-in SFT board.
This install required some specific milling retrofits for the new eye to be mounted. I've created a separate page for that which can be found here.

All my installs were the absolute cleanest wiring arrangements I could come up with, without sacrificing functionality. I use 2-mm wire disconnects for all connections, to allow for fast and simple disassembly of the body from the frame. This works a lot better than the usual ratsnest of jumbled wires and plugs all throughout the frame.

I used a recessed slide power switch on the rear of the frame, as seen here on this Camo Shocktech Shocker.

The older Predator2 multi-purpose boards used individual wires for the board parts, and was much more messy as a result. The install was still pretty clean if it was done correctly. It looked like this:

For the eye cover to cover the beam-break eyes, here are some examples of installs from other shops. Eye covers aren't difficult to make (since just about anything you have can be used as an eye cover), but it would also involve extra planning in regards to where the eye cover will be secured to the body.

A tapped hole would be required, 4-40 maximum thread pitch, I would actually recommend 3-48 for it. Second picture is from SpeedsCustom.
Body milling to replicate the stock eye cover can be performed as well, but more time has to be taken (or more expensive machinery). This is the most expensive work as a result.

First picture is from Warped Sportz LA (I took the picture); second picture is from TAG Sportz, third picture is from my milling.

Mayhem:
This gun really benefitted from new electronics, since the stock ones are very primitive. I originally planned on installing a custom board in this marker but in the end I installed a special circuit in the gun instead of a whole new board (basically re-worked the stock electronics). The marker is capped at 8-bps and has some other limitations so I didn't want to bother putting an entire board in there.
The new circuit consists of regulated 5v hooked up to the trigger switch. The solenoid remains open as long as the trigger is compressed. This works okay but you can't hold the trigger down for more than half a second or you'll risk permanent damage to the solenoid. As it is the solenoid won't function for too long using a circuit like this, but given how much I plan on using the gun (not much) it'll be okay.

Prototype: All my electronic prototype markers obviously use an electronics system that is built from the ground-up. Check their individual pages for information (if there's any available information).

Navigation:
Tech index -> Custom Work -> Electronics retrofit