Bodies and Feed Devices:

· Right feed: This is the stock setup, it involves a right-feed attachment onto your body, to be used with a hopper elbow.
· Powerfeed upgrade: This is an upgrade from right feed bodies. Powerfeeds are designed to function with air assist kits, so if you use on of those you may want to get a Powerfeed. Any right feed body can upgrade to a powerfeed. None of the major retailers carry either of these, however there are a few obscure stores that stil have the powerfed attachment kit (includes an air assist).
· Powerfeed/Air Assist kit: This is the afore-mentioned powerfeed attachment to your right feed Shocker. Comes with an air assist, which will include a small macroline and appropriate fitting, and a correctly-drilled hopper elbow. When the bolt opens, a small jet of gas is sent through the hose to provide a gentle push down onto the stack, thus reducing the risk of a chopped ball. Actual numbers on whether or not this makes any difference are hard ot come by, however some people swear by these devices.
· Vertical feed body: This is an upgrade from your side-feed Shocker to vertical. A totally new body that comes with a high-rise feed port, macroline fitting and gasline plug for your Shocker's manifold (installed), and possibly the brass fire piston seal ring (I don't know if this comes with it or not). Available only from Paintballgear.com for $120 (previously available from SP for $100).

Vertical Feed Tubes:

Feed tubes are the same on these markers: Shocker SFT, Shocker Sport, Impulse, Nerve, Omen, Bushmaster, and "new-stlye" Piranhas. I list a few of the aftermarket tubes below...there are many others available.
· Smart Parts Q-lock low rise: Low-rise feed port made by Smart Parts, with a clamping arm to tighten the feed. Available in black, silver, red, or blue from SP for $40.
· NEW DeSIGNZ clamping no-rise: Low-rise feed tube made by NDZ. Screws down to tighten the hopper on using o-rings. Available in multiple colors and is available from all NDZ retailers.
· A-Plus [Ultra] low-rise: Locking feed port made by A-Plus Anodizing, available in multiple colors with unique milling.
· CCM low-rise: Locking low-rise feed tube made by Chipley. Available in black in high or low-rise versions.
· Check-It Sure-Fit low-rise: Another locking feed tube, this one made by Check-it products. Available from punisherspb.com, as well as some other stores.
· others

Installation Instructions:

1. Remove the firing assembly from the rear of the marker. Remove the bolt on the Impulse, Nerve, or Shocker Sport; bolt assembly on the Shocker SFT. Also remove the ball detents (use an allen wrench for them). If they are stripped you will need to use a pair of pliers, however be extremely careful that you do not scratch the anodizing on the body.
2. Use a hiardryer or other heat source heat up the connection between the body and the tube. Heat it up until you are able to untwist it from the body. If you don't want to deal with the hairdryer, you could also try placing the body upside-down in a vice and untwisting it from the feed tube (don't worry, it is unlikely that you will not be able to bend the stock feed tube using most kinds of vices). Once it's off, clean the threads in the body.
3. Apply thread locker to the threads of the new feed tube (do not apply thread locker to the threads in the body). I recommend red loctite, or green if you feel daring. Then simply screw the new feed tube down into the threads. Do not screw it in as tight as you can, it must ONLY be hand-tight. If you screw it in too tight the feed tube will shatter during the game if enough force is applied to it.
4. Reinstall ball detents and firing assembly.
5. Allow thread locker or metal epoxy substancial time to cure.

Powerfeed installation: (old style bodies only)

1. Use a hairdryer or other heat source to heat the body where it comes in contact with the right feed tube. You could also vice down the feed tube and unscrew the body from it. Either way, once it's off, clean the threads on the body.
2. Apply thread locker to the threads on the powerfeed tube. Do not apply it to the threads in the body. I recommend the green-flavored loctite for this.
3. Screw the powerfeed tube onto the body. Drop some paintballs into it to see exactly how far you will need to screw it down: The visable paintball should align directly outside the chamber, not too far down or too far up the tube (see the following picture). But remember, the powerfeed tube needs to be straight up and down to balance your hopper properly.

4. Allow thread locker substancial time to cure.