Shocker Sports use a standard 45-style frame which is mounted to a tray, commonly called the circuit housing. The purpose of the circuit housing is to cover and house the solenoids and circuit board.
The marker's frame houses the trigger and battery. The frames have remained more or less the same over the years, except for the trigger spring position (explained later). There were a few aftermarket frames available for the Shocker Sport at one point, but they were all eventually discontinued. The most common frame was the S-Frame made by HyperSportWorks, which is explained in its own section below at the bottom of the page. The other frames included the following:
· Werm frame: A custom frame made by Imperial Paintball (out of business) built for the Impulse or Shocker. The Werm frames were similar to an Angel frame, so they use their own triggers. The frame also used its own trigger microswitch so you had to solder the frame's switch to the Shocker mainboard using wires (this was a service provided by Imperial while they were in business).
· OTB frame: A vertical frame for the Shocker Sport, from the company OTB Paintball (out of business). This was a drop-in frame that required no soldering or other modification, however it did use its own triggers.
· Angel frame mod: The Shocker Sport's spread-out design makes it relatively simple to retrofit just about any other frame onto the marker. This requires some drilling and soldering, but isn't too complicated. Angel frames were formally very popular for a custom mod, and used to be offered by several custom shops. You can also install a frame from another marker, but Angel frames are shown here.
The style of trigger in the marker depends on the type of board being used (either DS or LS). Stock DS triggers will only work with DS boards, and stock LS triggers will only work with LS boards. However, aftermarket LS triggers that include the proper vertical set screw to adjust the microswitch firing point will also work with DS boards.
Shocker Sport LS triggers are the same as Impulse triggers, and can be interchanged. As mentioned above, most aftermarket Impulse triggers will work with a DS board as well, however it depends on the exact position of the firing point screw. If using an LS board, you can use any Impulse trigger without problems. There were once many Impulse triggers available, from companies such as SP, New Designz, Custom Products, and others (some are still available as new, check stores to be sure).
The trigger's return spring weight is adjustable by using a 1/8" allen wrench through the top of the frame (you'll have to take the frame off the circuit housing to access it). If you lose the spring you can harvest one from a ball-point pen, or wherever else you can find a small and lightweight spring. The trigger spring set screw is threaded 1/4-28.
There are two main styles of frames, ones made for DS triggers and one for LS triggers. The main difference between them is the DS frames used a diagonal trigger spring whereas the LS frames positioned it vertical. If you have one of the DS frames and plan to purchase a new trigger, you'll have to file/grind off the back of the trigger so it will fit properly in the frame. This is self-explanatory when trying to install the trigger, but I'll show what needs to be done anyway:
The trigger is held in place by a pair of roll pins (called the trigger pins). The pins are held onto the marker by a c-clip (one on each pin) and can be removed for trigger installation or cleaning. The two pins aren't the same, one of them is straight all the way across whereas the other has a small depression in the middle. The straight pin is the pin the trigger pivots around whereas the pin with the depression functions as the trigger pre and post-travel stop.
You're supposed to put the pivot pin in front and the pre/post travel in rear, but it usually works either way. Even with an aftermarket trigger, you should still use both pins. The marker will work without the pre/post travel pin, but the trigger pull will be very long.
Older Shockers used a mechanical safety feature built into the trigger pins. The pre/post travel pin acted as the safety by pushing it to either side of the frame (like a conventional firearm or paintball marker safety pin). The trigger pin was fitted with a small spring with a bearing on the end (bearing not shown in the below picture) which held the trigger in either position. The safety feature would prevent the trigger from moving when in the correct position. The marker would work okay without the safety parts installed, and were dropped in 2000 when the LS boards were released.
The circuit housing attaches the frame to the bottom of the body, and holds the board in place (using 2-56 threaded screws). The circuit housings are compatible with all other Shocker Sports, except for the cuts made to accommodate the board. LS boards require a small slot on the left side to hold the LS slide switch actuator, and a small hole right in front of it for the LED.
SP sold their popular Gadget Grip accessory which replaced the front frame screw. This was the most popular foregrip, although now they're unavailable. The SP foregrips are compatible with Automag foregrip handles as well. Gadget grips featured a removable barrel plug in the bottom, seen below.
SP also produced a foregrip handle that didn't include the "gadget" barrel plug. It looked like this:
The only other alternative to that (besides for a vertical Max-Flo reg) was the HypAir foregrip, made by HyperSportWorks. This was discontinued in 2003 when the Shocker Sports were discontinued. The HypAir foregrips also served as a gas-thru for the bottomline regulator, as seen below.
The S-Frame from HyperSportWorks was a completely redesigned frame from the ground-up. It uses its own trigger, a new circuit board (commonly referred to as the daughterboard for the purposes of this page), and brings other features to the marker as well. This includes a powerswitch (if it didn't have one already), a firing mode switch for DS boards, and a green board indicator LED for power and firing status.
The frame used its own trigger adjustments. The post-travel set screw is accessible through the top of the frame while it's separated from the rest of the marker. There's a pair of small set screws located in the middle of the black "box" at the front of the daughterboard (sorry, no pic). It's adjusted using a 1/16" allen wrench. The 1/8" adjusted screw that is accessed through the battery compartment is the pre-travel adjustment.
If retrofitting the frame onto a marker, you will need a longer rear frame screw. If you can't find one locally, you can modify the frame using a drill press or even a hand drill if you're careful. When finished the stock frame screw will sink down into the S-Frame and work the same, as seen below.
After the frame is mounted to the gun, you'll notice there are two battery connectors attached to the frame's daugherboard. One of them leads down into the battery compartment, and this is for the battery. The other connector leads up into the circuit housing and this is where the Shocker's mainboard attaches. After being connected, the marker will power up like normal, using the S-Frame's powerswitch (the green LED will also light up). However, the frame isn't quite ready to use yet.
Here are some schematics for the S-Frame's daughterboard. There are two versions, called the S-Frame (DS) and the S-Plus Frame (LS).
As you can see, the boards are the same except for the connector leading to the Shocker's mainboard. The LS version is designed to be used with a new wire that is included with the frame when it's purchased. However, since it's unlikely that you'll ever find a "new in box" S-frame with all the needed parts, I won't bother discussing the installation with LS boards. If you purchase an S-frame and need to install it, just use the instructions below regardless of the board type.
Basically, you will need to assemble a wire pigtail to interface with the daughterboard (this plugs into the black 8-point connector on the top of the daughterboard). The connector is a Molex Milli-Grid, and you can purchase the parts you need in the ZDS store's Electronics page (explained below). The connector has multiple functions but the only required wire is for the trigger circuit, which is plugged into the lower-right position as seen in the below picture. Once this is installed, the other end of the wire should be attached to the mainboard (soldered if available; however you can get away without soldering, again see below).
The other parts of this connector are used for the board's other functions, specifically the use of the fire mode switch on DS boards. There is a diagram below from the HSW installations sheet. The other ends of the wires are designed to be plugged into the small pinholes in the Shocker's mainboard (these are called vias). HSW claims you can just stick the stripped wire through the via and pinch it to the side, however it would be better to solder the connection to make sure it doesn't rattle loose. HSW said this wasn't necessary but it can't hurt. Using the below diagram, the "green" wire is the one that controls the trigger circuit. Attach it to the board as shown.
The wiring diagram for DS boards also shows additional wires, labeled gray/orange/purple/white. These are for the firing mode switch on the daughterboard and can be wired using the schematic I provided above.