Shocker/Nerve Powerswitch Repair > Tech index > Shocker SFT > Troubleshooting and repair > Electronics troubleshooting > Powerswitch repair > Tech index > Shocker NXT > Troubleshooting and repair > Electronics troubleshooting > Powerswitch repair
Tech index -> Nerve -> Troubleshooting and repair -> Electronics troubleshooting > Powerswitch repair

This is a guide on how to remove a broken powerswitch from your upper board and install a new one in its place. This is recommended for those only with moderate/advanced soldering experience. You will be soldering directly onto the circuit board itself, so one false move can damage surrounding circuit components, and possibly cause you to trash the whole board. Naturally, I am not responsible for any damages done to your marker or yourself during this process.

Please note: This is not a how-to guide to learn how to solder yourself. If you don't know how to solder then you shouldn't start with this; it's better to start with something easier like a pair of wires. Ultimately I can't teach you how to solder, so if you really wish to learn then you'll have to do that on your own.

Broken Powerswitch:
There are several ways that a powerswitch can break. Of them include the small, raised button coming off; the switch cover coming off; the entire switch can also break free from the board. If either of those happen, the switch can be replaced through this guide.

If the whole switch broke off your board, though, you may have some problems. The board will only be repairable if both the switch's solder pads are still intact on the surface of the board. If one or both of them were ripped up along with the switch, the board is unrepairable and you will need a new upper board.

Powerswitch Repair:
If your switch is indeed repairable, here are the steps you need to follow to remove it and replace with a working one. First, things you will need:
Replacement powerswitch, ITT/Cannon part number KSS321G. You can order it from an electronics distributor, or from the Store section on ZDS.
Soldering iron
60/40 electronics solder
Soldering flux (this comes pre-core'd into some solder, not needed if so)
Razor blade, knife, or other small/sharp tool
Desoldering bulb, desoldering braid (I prefer braid), both of which work with a regular soldering iron. You can also use a desoldering iron.

Read this entire guide BEFORE performing the activity. Ask if you have questions.

The first step in the process is to remove the broken switch. This will be easy if the cover is still present on the switch, however if it broke off you may have some additional steps to follow. I will describe both repair types.
To desolder the switch, I suggest using desoldering braid; I believe this to be easiest method to use. Simply take the braid and lay it down across the side of the switch (this is where it is soldered onto the board). With the braid in position, use the soldering iron to apply pressure to the top of the braid, which will liquefy the solder on the switch and let it be absorbed by the desoldering braid. You will see a trail of smoke and hopefully be able to see the braid absorb the molten solder. Leave the soldering tip on the switch for no more than five seconds or you risk damage to the board.
Powerswitch repair

Do the same to the other side of the switch. The switch will still be stuck to the board at this point, so you will still need to pry it up and off. If the cover is still present, you can do this using the soldering iron by touching it to the base of the switch (where it's soldered onto the board) and propping it up using the tip. However, if the cover isn't on the switch then you won't be able to do that (since there's nothing to push against). If that's the case, you will need to take a razor blade or knife and lift the switch while heating up one side base. This requires two hands, at least (you may wish to have assistance while doing it).
Powerswitch repair

Once one side of the switch is propped up, it will look like this:
Powerswitch repair

At this point all you need do is touch the soldering iron to the base of the switch still attached to the board, and it should come right off. You're now left with the two empty solder pads on the board, ready to accept a new switch.
Powerswitch repair

Seen above is a brand-new powerswitch held up for a comparison view. You will need to position the switch correctly on the board, making absolutely sure that it's perfectly straight, and in the exact correct position. The board is marked where the raised button head of the switch needs to be. This is the optimal position, however if you wish you can move it forward (if you wish the powerswitch actuator to be easier to press). This takes a lot of experience to get right, though, so I don't recommend you bother with it.

With the switch in position, you may again require assistance in holding it there (depending on how steady your hands are). Solder one base of the switch into position then check to see that it's in the correct spot. If not then now is the time to desolder and try again. If the switch is correctly aligned, then solder down the other side just like the first.

Once finished, this is what you should have:
Powerswitch repair

Plug the board in to test it out. If the board powers up like normal, then the repair was successful and you can reassemble the marker and be done. If the board doesn't power up then the connection between the switch and solder pad may be loose, or there is a separate problem (grip damage, wire harness, battery, etc). Please refer to the Troubleshooting guide for details.

Powerswitch Repair Video:
I've made a demonstrational video to show one sample powerswitch repair as outlined above.
Video on YouTube
Powerswitch repair, high-res (23-MB)
Powerswitch repair, medium-res (9-MB)
Powerswitch repair, low-res (5-MB)
Alternate soldering method, high-res (6-MB)
Alternate soldering method, low-res (3-MB)
This is an extremely quick demo video I made to help show certain techniques. I made the repair look a lot easier than it might be for you.