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Tech index -> Shocker SFT -> Adjusting and maintaining -> Flipped switch mod
Tech index -> Nerve -> Adjusting and maintaining -> Flipped switch mod

Microswitch Orientation:
The trigger microswitch on the lower board is responsible for responding to the movements of the trigger, to send the "fire" signal to the board. Microswitch orientation referrs to the direction in which the microswitch lever faces, which coincides with the position of the trigger firing point set screw. Originally, the Shocker boards came with a microswitch that faced downwards, however the firing point screw was located relatively high against the switch. This resulted in a heavy pull due to the actuation point being too close to the lever's fulcrum (its hinge in this case), and forcing a tight angle of applied force. Flipping the microswitch around allows the firing point screw to actuate the end of the lever, which results in a much cleaner trigger pull. Over time this came to be known as the flipped switch.

Soon after the release of the Nerve boards in late 2004, the boards were redesigned to include the flipped switch already. However, by this time many triggers were released and some of them were specifically designed to perform the same function as the flipped switch mod, by moving the activation point downward. However, what this meant is these such triggers would only function with a non-Flipped switch. And thus the problem arises; currently all Shocker boards (stock or aftermarket) come with the flipped switch but many triggers out there are actually made for the non-flipped switch.
Put simply, here is a list of some triggers and which switch position they're designed to use.
Flipped switch: stock Shocker trigger, all triggers made by SP (Nasty, Dynasty, Tonton, Freeflow stock, etc), newer NDZ triggers (two firing point holes) most other triggers.
Non-flipped switch: older NDZ triggers (one firing point hole), older CP roller trigger, Hybrid Shocker trigger

Flipped Switch Instructions:
These instructions are written for the perspective of flipping the switch from the non-flipped to the flipped position. if your board comes with a flipped switch and you wish to flip it back to the opposite position (depending on your trigger), the soldering instructions are the same, just a different start and finish.

If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can flip the microswitch yourself (you must know how to desolder). If you are unable to, then you can send it in and I will do it for you (costs $10 plus shipping).

To do this mod yourself, you will need the following items: soldering iron, either desoldering iron or desoldering braid, stock of 60/40 solder for electrical applications, small length of wire (about an inch will suffice, or you can use a paperclip, staple, or whatever else that conducts), soldering flux for electrical applications (recommended but not required, only needed if your solder doesn't include a rosin core).

This is what the switch looks like pre-modification:

The first step is to desolder the switch from the circuit board. To do this, you will need either a desoldering iron or a regular soldering iron and a length of desoldering braid. Using your iron, remove the solder from the switch's terminals then push it out the other side of the board. You will then see this:

Flip the switch around so the lever points up, then insert it back into the three soldering terminals. You may have to remove some additional solder from the terminals on the board or the switch, to help it fit in the via pinholes. If you're using liquid soldering flux, you may wish to apply it to the three terminals before reinstalling the switch, however it is also possible to apply flux after it's in as well. Be sure you install the switch through the correct side of the board (use the pictures on this page to see; the switch is on the side of the board with all the swell buttons and other circuit components).

Either way, the next step is to use your soldering iron to apply a new solder connection on the middle terminal. After it's good and strong, you will need to get out a small length of wire or other conductive material. Solder one end to the top terminal, then solder the other end to the bottom one. Specifically, the bottom end of the wire must come in contact with the switch terminal, and the top end must contact the board terminal. Obviously, the metal in this wire cannot come in contact with the middle terminal, or the switch will not operate correctly.

After you have the switch and jumper installed, hook up the board and test it out to verify that it works. If the board turns on but you can't fire it, then check the connections between the microswitch's terminals. Alternately, if the board turns on but the LED doesn't blink, it may be because the microswitch is being jumped and held closed...thus the board won't boot. For that, make sure your wire jumper isn't touching metal-to-metal with the middle terminal.

You may need to adjust your trigger a bit to actually feel the difference in pulls.

Navigation:
Tech index -> Shocker SFT -> Adjusting and maintaining -> Flipped switch mod
Tech index -> Nerve -> Adjusting and maintaining -> Flipped switch mod