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Tech index -> Invert Mini -> Disassembly pictures

This is an image-intensive page with descriptions and other text. This page will take forever to load on dial-up, sorry. I might make a thumbnail page if demand goes up.

Note: This page displays the method for the complete disassembly of the marker. This isn't required for regular use, and in fact the manual suggests some pieces not ever be tampered with, but you can use this page for help should you indeed decide to tinker with yours.

This is the gun. It's essentially stock in these pictures, so there aren't any added parts to worry about.

Frame/Foregrip Disassembly:
The first step with just about any marker is to remove the grip panels. These are 6-32 screws with small heads on them, use a 5/64" allen wrench to remove.

once the grips are free, the bottom of the solenoid and the whole of the air chamber is visible inside the frame. These parts will be visited later on.

You don't want to remove the frame before removing the foregrip, so deal with that next. You can start by removing the battery plate, which is done by unscrewing the screw in the bottom of the foregrip, using a 3/32" allen wrench.

Once the screw comes out, the battery cover will slide down then off, exposing the mainboard as well as the battery. Please note this is the "correct" position for the battery wires. If you cram the wires into the foregrip in just about any other way than above, you risk damage to the board.

Gently remove the battery by sliding it out of position, and disconnect the battery snap.

The foregrip can be removed by loosening the two set screws located in the front of the foregrip, using a 1/16" allen wrench. When the screws are lightly loosened, the foregrip can slide down and off the trigger guard. It's held in position using a dovetail mount, so it slides off the bottom of the frame. The set screws are seen loosened in the above picture.

The foregrip's mainboard connects to the sensor board under the marker body by a 2-mm Molex header at the top. This slides into position when the foregrip is properly installed.

Anyways, once the foregrip is removed, the frame can be separated from the body as well. The frame is held in place using two screws, both removed by a 1/8" allen wrench. Remove the rear frame screw first, which will also release the firing assembly when it is unscrewed far enough. When the rear screw disengages the firing assembly, it might spring out the back of hte gun, so always hold it in place until you want to remove it (if it doesn't spring out on its own, lightly push it from the front and it'll come loose). Set the firing assembly aside.

Next, remove the front frame screw. When it's out, you can gently slide the frame off and away from the body. Slide it straight off to avoid damaging the solenoid and air chamber.

The bottom of the air chamber can be removed from the frame simply by unscrewing it. There's an o-ring at the bottom which seals against the regulator (not shown), if this o-ring is leaking then it'll have to be replaced.

Body Disassembly:
The solenoid and air chamber are attached to the bottom of the body; they're screwed into place. To remove the solenoid, first unplug it from the sensor board, then unscrew. The air chamber can also be unscrewed in the same manner.

Mounted against the underside of the body is a long, milled aluminum plate called the air transfer plate. The solenoid and air chamber are mounted to the transfer plate, which is itself secured onto the body using seven small screws. To remove the plate, crack the screws using your allen wrench, then remove them.

When the screws are removed, the air transfer plate can be pushed off the body.

Sunk into the bottom of the body is a convoluted pressure gasket, which is used to shunt air pressure to different parts of the marker. If leaking from the transfer plate, a portion of this gasket is likely to blame. However, unless you remove the gasket from the body, the chances of it becomming damaged just from regular use is reduced.

The detents are removed simply by unscrewing them. These are "piston" type detents, fitted with a spring, that are held against the body using a cover.

The only other main portion to the body that can be removed is the check valve (aka. flow restrictor). This is a small, plastic air port that slows down pressure flow in one direction. This component is used to help control the movement of the bolt during firing; be sure to avoid loosing this small piece.

Firing Assembly:
The firing assembly of the marker, removed from the rear of the body, is an assembly that will stay together when removed unless you pull it apart. There are a few components to it but they're located on the inside.
The bolt tip can be slid off the front of its guide housing, like so...

Regular maintenance involves cleaning and regreasing the firing poppet inside the bolt guide housing. It's accessed by unscrewing the endcap, as shown.

The firing poppet can then be pushed out from the front.

The front of the poppet is a sealing disk which needs to be clean and dry. The o-ring around the poppet should be greased as needed, as well as the other rings located on the outside of the housing.

When reassembling, be sure to push the firing poppet forward against the inside of the housing. This will ensure the proper seal when the marker is next pressurized.
Also please note that the bolt spring is tapered, so the diameter of one end is smaller than the other. The small end faces rear, the larger end goes into the marker body first.

When reinstalling the firing assembly in the body, there is a small pin fixed into the back of the body that will align with a hole in the bolt guide housing. It looks like this:

Sensor Board Removal:
The sensor board is located on the underside of the body, however it is simply press-fitted up against it; there aren't any screws holding it on. The eye elements prevent the board from falling out while the marker is disassembled. To remove the sensor board, use a small allen wrench to gently push the eye elements out from their holes (insert the allen wrench down through the feedneck). When both eyes are out of position, the sensor board will be loosened like this:

The board can then be gently switched out of position and removed. It looks like this:

Top side, facing the body:

Bottom side, facing away from the body.

The component marked IC71 in the above picture is the trigger magnetic (HES) switch. Please note that, attached to the underside of the body, is a small metal pin. This pin is glued into a small hole in the body right above the HES switch in the body. The pin is used along with the trigger magnet to fire the gun, so if you loose the pin you'll have to replace it. I don't suggest even bothering with this pin because it's very small and needs to be glued onto the body in the right position to function.

Mainboard Removal:
The mainboard is located inside the foregrip and doesn't have to be removed except for cleaning or upgrading. The first step in board removal is to loosen and remove the screw securing it in place. This is located on the back of the foregrip, toward the top (hidden under the trigger guard when the foregrip is attached to the marker).

The mainboard is now loose inside the foregrip. To remove it, pull the board up and toward the rear of the foregrip housing. This pulls the board out from the small groove holding it in, and will allow it to move freely.

The board can then be pulled out from the top of the foregrip.

This is the rear of the board, where the majority of its components lie:

Front of the board, where the connectors and capacitor are located. This uses a radial, 10 volt, 2200-µF capacitor to operate the solenoid (operates at 5v). A thin piece of foam is also supplied against the board to allow the battery to slide in and out with minimal problems.

Regulator Disassembly:
The regulator is attached to the bottom of the frame and isn't suggested that it be removed unless neccessary. The reg isn't very user-serviceable so disassembly isn't suggested for regular use.
To remove the regulator, loosen the two set screws located in the side of the frame, toward the bottom. The reg will come loose and slide down, off the frame. This can be accomplished with the air chamber bottom installed in the frame (pictured), or not.

When the reg is separated from the air chamber bottom, the reg's mounting rail can slide off.

I'll add more to the reg section later.

Solenoid:
The solenoid is a "latching" type valve which uses magnetic fields of the surrounding material to reset it while idle. As a result, the solenoid's internal armature can get lodged in the incorrect position and prevent it from sealing up. If this happens you may have to disassemble the valve.
Alternately, the manual doesn't make mention of solenoid maintenance (not that I can recall anyway) but you may wish to clean it out after a while, once it gets filled with grease. Greasy air pressure will be shunted through the solenoid for each pressurized firing, so you may wish to clean it out after a while. This would likely be an infrequent cleaning.

Anyways, the solenoid is held together by three small phillips-head screws, accessed through the top. I've found that you need a perfectly-shaped screwdriver to remove these, or you may strip them out.

When the endcap comes off, there will be one metric o-ring between it and the solenoid housing. It may stick to the endcap or stick to the housing; keep track of it either way (in the below picture, it stuck to the endcap).

The armature sticks out the top of the solenoid housing; it can be removed by pulling it straight out.

The armature is a two-piece component with a seat-seal at each end. Both ends should be reasonably clean as well as the main shaft too. The opposing seat surfaces down inside the solenoid housing and up inside the endcap can be cleaned.

During reassembly, reinsert the solenoid armature down into the housing with the thin, brass (yellow) end facing up/out. You need to be able to view the top port in the armature before reinstalling the endcap. If you can't see the port, pull the solenoid up slightly and it will "suspend" itself in position. Gently reinstall the endcap once it's set.

If the marker is pressurized with the armature in the wrong position, it'll leak and won't seal up. The solenoid is designed to reset itself after being energized, but you never know if it'll go wrong once and foul everything up. The trick that's been circulating for resetting the armature is to crank the dwell setting all the way up (or to an abnormally high setting with an aftermarket board) which should smack the solenoid into the correct position. However if that doesn't work you'll have to take the solenoid apart and reset it yourself, manually.