Impulse Electronics Settings ZDSPB.com > Tech index > SP Impulse classic > Troubleshooting Guide

If your Impulse is experiencing problems, this page is designed to help. I list the gun's symptom along with a series of possible causes, and how to remedy them. The causes of possible causes are in the order displayed so you know which are more likely (higher), and which are less common (lower).
Let it first be said that a lot of problems can be solved by a good cleaning and greasing. Learn how to do that here.

LED doesn't blink, and solenoid doesn't fire.
Replace the battery.
Verify that the trigger is contacting the microswitch on the board. You can easily to this by separating the body and circuit housing, removing the board, turning it on, and pushing the microswitch manually with your finger. If the LED on the board blinks then the trigger will need to be adjusted so that it is contacting the microswitch.
If the LED doesn't blink, the microswitch may be worn out or otherwise damaged, and would need to be repaired or replaced.

Marker functions correctly, but LED doesn't blink.
The LED has fried. This is very uncommon but can be easily repaired.

Impulse doesn't turn on (cricket board).
Replace the battery.
Separate the body from circuit housing and inspect the power switch for damage. The most common problem is for the blue rubber pad to break off. If this has happened, you will need to replace the board.
If the blue rubber pad is intact, push it manually with your finger. If the board turns on then the power switch actuator button in the rear of the circuit housing isn't correctly actuating the switch.
If manually pressing the switch doesn't work, then there is an internal problem with the board that will need to be repaired (or replaced).

Impulse doesn't turn on (green/amber board).
Replace the battery.
Separate the body from circuit housing and inspect the power switch for damage. The most common problem is for the small toggle lever to break off. If this has happened, you will need to get the power switch replaced.
Leak
If the switch lever is intact, take the board out of the circuit housing and manually push the switch forward with your finger. If the board turns on then the power switch slide actuator on the side of the circuit housing isn't correctly actuating the switch.
If manually pressing the switch doesn't work, then there is an internal problem with the board that will need to be repaired (or replaced).

Dwell button broke (Cricket board).
The board will have to be replaced.

Timing potentiometer broke (green/amber board).
The board will have to be replaced.

Vision malfunction.
Verify that you are in Vision mode.
Replace the battery.
Remove the Vision eye from the body and check to see if it has been disconnected from the ribbon. If it is loose, then it will need to be repaired or replaced.
Inspect the connector between the main board and the Vision daughterboard. if any of the metal contacts are bent or destroyed, the effected board will need to be replaced.
Vision sensitivity is too light (green/amber boards only); increase sensitivity to compensate.
Paint shells are too rough and/or dark colored, and the breech sensor isn't detecting them. You must use a different color shell or upgrade the circuit board.

Marker fires even though nothing is in the chamber (Vision enabled).
Verify that you are in Vision mode.
Vision sensitivity is too heavy (green/amber boards only); decrease sensitivity to compensate.

Solenoid doesn't click when you pull the trigger.
If the LED doesn't blink each time you pull the trigger, the trigger microswitch isn't being actuated. Adjust the trigger and check to see if the switch is broken (take the board out and push it with your finger.
Replace the battery.
Verify that the dwell setting is at least 12 chirps or 6 milliseconds.
Check the wires leading to the solenoid for damage.
Check the pins inside the solenoid connector. If either of the pins are bent down, the problem would occur.
if you have a Vision board, inspect the connector between the main board and the Vision daughterboard. if any of the metal contacts are bent or destroyed, teh effected board will need to be replaced.

Solenoid clicks, but bolt doesn't fire.
Replace the battery.
Increase dwell until it fires.
If you have an LPR, increase the pressure until it fires (LPR pressure should be above 60-psi, if you have a gauge attached)
Clean and regrease the firing assembly and solenoid.
Verify that the solenoid endcap is installed correctly. The endcap has a line that must face the body.
Remove the circuit housing from the body and press the solenoid manual override button. When pressed, the bolt should fire. If it doesn't, then the solenoid isn't receiving enough pressure, or the solenoid is damaged.
If the solenoid releases an amount of air when the override is pressed and released (you would be able to hear it puff) then the ram is to blame. Disassemble the piston and replace the ram sail o-ring.
Replace the solenoid spool or the individual solenoid.

First shot drop off (FSDO).
Replace the battery.
Increase the dwell.
Clean and regrease the firing assembly and solenoid. Be sure to not undergrease or overgrease any seals.
The FSDO in your gun may be caused by the electronics; if this is the case then the only solution is to replace the board.

Velocity dropoff.
Replace the battery.
Clean the regulator, firing assembly, and solenoid.
if you have an LPR, increase the LPR pressure (needs to be ablove 60-psi, if you have a gauge attached)

Impulse experiences bolt stick with each shot.
LPR pressure is too high; decrease to compensate.
Dwell is WAY too high; decrease to compensate. Only decrease if your setting is extremely high.
Clean and regrease the LPR.
Clean and regrease the firing assembly, make sure the hammer moves forward and back with ease.

Impulse bolt remains forward when dryfired (no solenoid optimizer installed).
Verify that a paintball was correctly loaded in the breech.
The only way to dryfire the Impulse without a solenoid optimizer is to remove the barrel and place your hand over the breech instead. This creates the necessary backpressure to recock the marker. If you're not doing this, then the condition is normal.
Insufficient input pressure is being supplied to the solenoid; increase input pressure and decrease dwell to compensate.

Impulse bolt remains forward when dryfired (solenoid optimizer is installed).
Verify that the solenoid endcap is installed correctly. The endcap has a line that must face the body.
Remove the bolt and pressurize the marker. If the hammer remains forward when you fire, then the problem is caused by the firing assembly or LPR (see below).
If the hammer doesn't stick forward without the bolt, the problem is with the upper body (see below).

Bolt stick caused by firing assembly.
Clean and re-grease the LPR and valve; make sure the valve spring is reinstalled correctly. LPR pressure needs to be above 60-psi in most Impulses (if you have a gauge installed). I recommend higher pressures than 60-psi though.
Verify that the solenoid optiizer is screwed all the way into the body.
Inspect the 9/70 o-rings on the solenoid optimizer for damage; replace if necessary (recommended).
If you are using a Voodoo Full-Flow (VFF) or NDZ High-Flow Vertical (HFV) vertical adapter with an LPR, reinstall the VFF set screw using loctite and allow time for it to cure. The set screw may be leaking in high-pressure air into the solenoid chamber.
Replace the solenoid.

Bolt stick caused by the upper body.
Remove the detents from the body to see if they are sticking the bolt forward. If they are, then place o-rings around the detent that is screwed too far into the chamber.
if you have Vision, make sure you install the long detent on the Vision side of the marker and NOT the non-Vision side.

Impulse valve remains open when you fire, even though the bolt cycles back as normal.
Verify that the valve is correctly installed in the Impulse body.
Remove the front endcap from the body and examine the valve spring; ascertain that the spring was correctly placed. If it is deformed then it will need to be replaced.

Leak down the barrel.
Clean and regrease the front o-ring around the valve. Inspect it for damage; replace if necessary (recommended).
Check for any scratches on the front of the valve. If there are any, you'll have to replace it.
Check for any scratches or otherwise deformations on the valve poppet. Again, if there are any, it'll need to be replaced.
Verify that the valve is correctly installed in the Impulse body.

Leak from the valve screw on the underside of the body.
This leak can be caused by the 10/70 o-ring on the end of the screw; replace it.

Air seems to leak out the slot for the bolt pin.
The following o-rings can cause this type of leak:
Leak

Air leaks from the set screw on the side of the body.
Remove the screw and reinstall using loctite. Allow time to cure. Loctite grade doesn't matter becuase you would ideally never have to remove this screw.

Leak from the top of the vertical adapter.
Replace the 15/70 o-ring between the vertical adapter and the underside of the body.

Leak from between the vertical adapter and the top of the vertical regulator.
Replace the 15/90 tank o-ring around the threads of the vertical reg.
Replace the bottom 20/70 o-ring around the ASA threaded section of the Impulse vertical Max-Flo (must disassemble the reg for this).

Leak from the base of the valve endcap.
Replace the o-ring (18/70).

LPR pressure creep.
LPR pressure creeps can manifest as a leak from the solenoid due to overpressurization, or an excessively hot first shot over the chronograph.
If you are using a Voodoo Full-Flow (VFF) or NDZ High-Flow Vertical (HFV) vertical adapter with an LPR, reinstall the VFF set screw using loctite and allow time for it to cure. The set screw may be leaking in high-pressure air into the solenoid chamber.
Disassemble and clean your LPR. There may be a base seal leak causing a small pressure spike.

Leak from the bottom of the vertical regulator (adjustment endcap).
Leaks out the adjustment endcap can appear gradually after you fire a shot or be a constant leak of pressure. Same problem for both of these. The following seals can cause this symptom, and should be cleaned.
Piston o-ring (14/75); clean and regrease, replace if necessary (recommended).
Base seal between the poppet and the base (flared section of the poppet and the opposing surface); clean with no grease, replace if necessary (recommended).
Base seal 9/90 and/or 10/70 o-rings; clean with no grease, replace if necessary (recommended).

Leak from the base of the solenoid
Reinstall the solenoid onto the underside of the Impulse body.
Clean and re-grease the solenoid spool.
Verify the solenoid end cap is correctly placed. The line should face the Impulse body.
Replace the solenoid body gasket.
Replace the ram sail o-ring and the middle o-ring around the piston housing.
The screw taps in the body may be stripped. If this is the case, you will have to have the solenoid spool section drilled out, or replace the entire body.
if you have an LP solenoid core spring installed (if you're unsure, then you have the HP), verify that your LPR pressure isn't above 130-psi (approx). The solenoid will only seal under that pressure amount.

When you fire, an air burst vents from the base of the solenoid.
This is normal.

The top of the bolt pin broke off; you are unable to remove the bolt.
Insert the approapriate allen wrench down the back of the bolt and unscrew the pin bearing set screw within; let it, the spring, and the bearing fall out the back of the bolt. The bolt pin will now freely fall out the top of the body once the marker is tipped upside-down. You'll have to replace the bolt pin now.

Impulse experiences velocity spikes or otherwise inconsistent results.
Clean the regulator (note: replacing o-rings is recommended).
Increase dwell.
Clean the firing assembly and soleniod (note: replacing o-rings is recommended).
Inspect the valve spring for deformation; replace if necessary.