Axe Pro disassembly pictures ZDSPB.com > Tech index > Empire Axe Pro > Disassembly pictures

This is an image-intensive page with descriptions and other text. The pictures will pop-out and automatically resize to your screen if too large. To view the original pictures, right-click on the picture thumbnail and open it in a new window/tab. This should allow you to view the full size pictures.

Overview:
Below you can see some exterior views of the Axe Pro marker itself. Axe Pros are smaller than the previous "classic" Axe platform, but larger than the same-generation Mini-GS. The general marker layout is almost identical for all these markers, but most of the parts and internals are separate for each platform.

The "exploded" picture was taken at the end of the full disassembly carried out throughout this page.

Field-Strip & Firing Assembly:
All types of Axes have a quick-release firing assembly for quick cleaning. The Axe Pro uses a small spring-loaded button on the left side of the frame, which allows the bolt endcap to slide out when pressing the button. This system is similar to the classic Axe quick-release, but the button system has been shrunk and simplified.

The bolt and firing poppet are identical to the classic Axe, classic Mini, Mini-GS marker, and TM7/15 markers (possibly others too). However, the bolt endcap/guide is unique to each specific marker and are not compatible with one-another.

Eye covers & Detents:
One of the large changes seen with Axe Pros is their removeable eye cover system. This is a first for the Mini/Axe platform, but most players would agree the change was well-conceived because it makes cleaning and basic maintenance much easier compared to previous Axes and Minis. In addition, Axe Pros use a molded rubber detent "nubbin" unlike the previous Axes which relied upon a spring loaded plastic plunger. The nubbin detents are undoubtly cheaper and easier to keep spare.

The eyes can be pulled out from their positions in the body to allow for cleaning, but they cannot be completely removed from the marker without a full disassembly (below).

Foregrip & Frame Removal:
Further disassembly requires separating the grip frame from marker body. The first step is always to remove the grip panels which will reveal the grip frame inside area. To remove the grip frame itself, you must remove the two screws holding the combination frame/foregrip onto the body (shown below).

The rear-most screw is concealed in the spine of the frame, so you must remove the front screw first then the concealed rear screw second.

The foregrip is attached to the frame (which will be separated later). To open the foregrip, loosen the hidden screw located on the bottom-left of the foregrip. Loosening the screw will allow the battery cover to push off and reveal the internals. The battery can be gently pulled out while the circuit board is still held in position by a single screw from the backside of the foregrip.

The frame, foregrip, and trigger guard are all separate comonents which can be unscrewed from one-another. See the pictures below for the screw locations. The trigger is retained using a small pin which is removed from the left side.

Note that the Axe Pro trigger shares the same design as Mini-GS triggers, however the Mini-GS version uses a plastic bushing instead of metal ball bearing.

ASA Regulator:
The new-generation ASA/regulator is smaller than that of the classic Axe, but internally very similar. To remove the ASA, loosen the two cap screws from the inside of the frame. These can be tricky to remove unless you have ball-rounded allen keys, but once again everyone reading this should own a set of ball-rounded allen keys (yes you!)

This regulator is identical to that of the Mini-GS, although the screw pattern is different (the ASA body has extra threaded holes on the topside).

Body Disassembly:
As with other Axes and Minis, the solenoid and top air chamber are screwed into the underside of the body. The body underside is a separate component called the transfer plate, which bolts onto the body. The two components can be unscrewed by hand.

The transfer plate is separated from the body by unscrewing the six(6) cap screws holding them together. The transfer plate sandwiches a complex gasket between it and the body; the sensor board is also captured between the two.

The eyes can be unplugged from the sensor board once the transfer plate is out of the way. Then the sensor board itself is free to be removed.

As with all Minis and Axes, a small plastic flow restrictor is held inside one of the gasket holes. The "small" end of the flow restrictor faces toward the marker body. The flow restrictor is an important part o the system that allows Axes to be especially gentle on paint, so this component is required for normal operation. (I believe new markers come with at least one spare in the included parts kit)

One remaining part is the top air chamber plunger system. This item involves a spring-loaded air piston that moves upward into the firing assembly when the marker is pressurized, to prevent the bolt from being removed while the marker is charged. This item is difficult to disassemble so I didn't follow through with it, but you can see the C-clip holding the plunger in place.

Feedneck:
The feedneck is a combination of a threaded boss which is semi-permanently attached to the body. The reason I call it "semi-permanently" is because there probably isn't a way to remove the boss without destroying it. It has wrench flats but the component is pretty thin so it may become damaged during removal. The marker's feedneck receptacle is threaded same as clssic Minis/Axes, which are the same as Impulse, Shocker SFT, Nerve, Bushmaster, Piranha, Omen, and some others.

Circuit boards:
At the time of this writing, Axe Pro markers use a Redline OLED board. I believe this is the same compared to the Redline upgrade boards for classic Minis and Axes, although I don't know for certain.

Redline mainboard shown above.

ZDSPB.com - Tech - Video - Links - Store - Contact - About - Legal