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Electronics hardware is one of my major trades so I've of course incorporated that skill into my custom projects. My idea of the ultimate electronics project is creating an entire board from scratch, which is essentially described here on this page. However, my specialities include hardware design and component selection, not the actual programing itself. I do have some programming knowledge, but my programs aren't hardley as sophisticated as those found in the aftermarket paintball industry. Mostly, I concentrate on the required items such as debounce, rate of fire adjustment, and something that acts like AMB. Firing modes are pretty easy to make so I've got lots of those available too. Everything more complex than that (other than the given things) I tend to avoid.

This page is for informational use only; it is not an advertisement, these boards are NOT for sale. This doesn't mean they will never be available for sale, but at the moment I have absolutely no plans toward selling them. Don't bother asking.

Hardware manipulation:
In terms of general hardware design...one of the frequent topics I get asked about is using a 555 timer to control a firing sequence, or maybe even more simple method such as discrete logic gates. Personally I stay away from these primitive things myself, and would much rather use a simple circuit controlled by a microcontroller (MCU) to do the job. Again, this is what's described on this page. It's true that you could probably make a working paintball marker using a 555 timer, but it'd be horribly limited. When using a microcontroller, you have the benefit of unlimited adjustability through the programming, which can be used to do anything you want as long as you know how to program it. 555 timers offer no programming to adjust, rather simply using resistors and other peripheral things to control them. That may work in a pinch but it'd be much more simple in the long-run to just program a circuit. Frankly I don't think you'd get anywhere of pleasing success without using an MCU circuit. But hey it's up to you...

Euclid board: (revision-C)
This is a drop-in replacement for a Nerve, Shocker SFT, or Shocker NXT.
· Features a unique LED array, consisting of 10 side-mounted superbright LEDs. These are for displaying visual patterns and effects while the gun is idle. Typically I have them programmed to simulate the Cylons' red "eye", since we all know the Cylons kick ass.
· LED-based programming method using the UP, DN, and SET buttons. The current setting is diaplayed in the number of LEDs lit up, and can then be adjusted up or down by pressing UP or DN button. This is kindof similar to how the stock SP boards work, except my board gives you a visual readout to follow. I've found this much easier in the past, myself.
· Separate beam-break eye connector is also included, however this was made obsolete in 2007 with the creation of my I-LEB converter.

Note that the boards in the above pictures were only prototypes, and look a little different than the actual ones I programmed for use.

Euclid board: (revision-D)
This is a newer version of the above board. Sometime in mid-2007 I decided there was a number of things I left out of the previous Euclid boards. They of course worked okay, but there were some other options and features I wanted to have at my fingertips. Accordingly, I decided I was going to build another version board in my spare time. Here are the changes to the new version:
· Totally new microcontroller. The new one has many new features, including some of these...
·· Internal system clock (reduces the cost and allows more room on the circuit board). The system clock is also adjuatable at will, so I'm not limited to just one preset speed.
·· Faster processing speed, allowing for greater adjustment of the firing settings.
·· Signal conversion ability, can be used to increase the eye performance.
·· Larger memory banks, no limits on the program size.
· Dual-sided LED array. The original Euclid boards had a right-side LED array; the new ones will have it on both sides. There's really no reason for this, but I figured I'd do it anyway. It'll be tricky to make reliable, but I'll do it. Like the previous Euclid board, this one will also use 3-mm superbright LEDs; I'm not going to switch to surface-mount ones, they're too small and stupid.
· Simplified adjustment method. Even more simple than the last one I used.
· Built-in exapnsion connector for a Pulse RF harness.
· Built-in speaker. I'm not too experienced with programming speakers but I like using them for button-pushing if possible...so I decided I'd include that in this board.
· New hardware design to allow for in-circuit serial reprogramming (ISCP). This will make it easier to reprogram on my side.
Last updated in October 2007. I'm currently working on the prototype test-board (on a solderless breadboard...I love them). Once I figure out how to make everything work the way I want, I'll finish the circuit board design and have it produced.

Proclus board: (revision-D)
Multi-purpose circuit, made for no gun in particular, however with modifications can function in virtually any gun currently available or available in the future. This is of course a relative situation, since I can program it to do whatever I want, but the capability is still there.
· Board measures 5/8" wide by 7/8" tall. It's chiefly designed to fit vertically in the grip frame, but can be positioned in other locations if there's enough room.
· Hardware capable of operating any solenoid configuration. This includes single solenoid open bolt, dual solenoid closed bolt, single solenoid closed bolt, or overlapping dual solenoids.
· No practical restriction on the input voltage (up to 24 volts DC), so it can run any gun using a 9v battery, and can also run higher voltages suited for heavy solenoids (E-Mag, etc). The solenoid transistor is more than enough to run ANY solenoid for a paintball marker. The transistor is rated to 6 amp at 30 volts (180 watts) continuous current, or more than 600 watts if the signal is pulsed.
· Hardware designed for either beam-break or reflective eyes. The boards I put together are made for beam-break eyes, but can function with reflective eyes using one additional resistor soldered in-line to the eye (easy). Can operate visble or infrared eye types.
· Programming lock DIP switch.
· Includes two superbright LEDs for programming and board status.
· Individual connectors for the trigger/battery, solenoid(s), and eye system. This allows for easy separation of the board from the marker's electronics, while still keeping the wiring reasonably grouped together inside the marker. The conectors use Molex milli-grid crimp housings, same series as the Morlock, Intimidator, bushmaster, and others.
· Future expansion available for additional support features. The microcontroller has unused input/outputs that can be attached to other items such as LEDs, switches, speakers, or whatever I want. This allows me to customize each individual board to its specific application. For instance I can add an additional button to toggle eye on/off. Or, I could install another pair of eyes in the gun. Basically anything I want.

I designed this circuit after several years experience with multi-purpose boards and custom retrofits of that nature. I firmly believe this is the ultimate multi-purpose package for any marker out there. Every part is designed with a reason behind it, and I had to make very little concessions. The concepts behind the board make it ideal for literally any situation.

Proclus board: (revision-G)
A micro version of the above board, using smaller components and a different layout. The length of the board was reduced from 7/8" to 3/4" (0.875" to 0.75"). I haven't actually produced this board yet, though, since it's only marginally smaller than the above one. It uses components that are usually less than half the size of the above version, but even when the components are smaller you're still limited to the amount of space you need for routing the components. So essentially this is an advanced version of the above board, but isn't really worth much more.

Heron board:
Drop-in replacement for the Shocker Sport. it uses a reprogrammable microcontroller, all through-hole components, and supports eyes. I wanted to produce this board but never got around to it, and lost interest sometime later.

Philon board:
Drop-in replacement for an Ion, using the stock solenoid. This board combines the small hardware of my Proclus series with the added hardware needed to operate an Ion. It features lengthened battery life by disabling the main capacitor while the board is unused. I never made this because I didn't have the need for it, considering all the better aftermarket solutions that're out there already.

I-LEB eye converter:
See this page: I-LEB eye converter

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